Gun Cabinet Plans
The gun cabinet plans shown. The doors and draws are made out of knotty pine. With a honey oak stain on the main part and a Kona stain on the trim. And the boxes will be made from oak plywood. For the most part you can use any type of wood and stain you want. This is one of the best step by step instructions on making a cabinet grade gun cabinet.
GUN CABINET STYLES
GUN CABINET BOX AND FRAMES
GUN CABINET PLANS LAYOUT
In this gun cabinet plans layout the dotted lines are the glue lines. The back will attach to the inside of the side pieces. The top and bottom will attach to the sides and the back to the inside. Before you can attach them you will need to drill the pocket screws. The sizes for these plans are made for the use of pocket screws. So if you want to use different joints. You will need to re-size the piece to fit the wood joint you plan on using. In the next frame we will show how we placed the pocket screws.
GUN CABINET PLANS TOP ASSEMBLY
When your assembling the upper box, remember that the back goes to the inside of the two side pieces and the top and bottom attaches to the inside of the sides and the back. You will also need to drill for pocket screws on the inside front edges of the two sides. Then after finished you can put in plugs then sand them flush. Place the pockets screws about 6″ to 8″ apart. And then add the glue to the edges of the back, top and bottom. Then shoot the pocket screws. When assembled you should only see the pocket screws on the inside. But not on the outside of the two sides. You also need to check for square when attaching all sides of the box together.
GUN CABINET PLANS LOWER ASSEMBLY
Unlike the upper cabinet the lower will have pocket screws at the top of the sides and back, this is to attach the top because it will over hang the sides and the front and flush to the back. We made our top out of solid wood not plywood as we did the rest of the cabinets. This lets you put a nice edge on the front and the sides.
The back and the bottom will attach the same way the upper cabinet did. After you built your lower cabinets then make two dividers the same size as the inside. Place them inside and space them where you like. We spaced ours one foot from each end. This gave us a two foot draws and one foot doors at each end. Use the pocket screws on the inside where the draws will go. That way the pocket screws will be hidden after you install the draws.
MAKING FACE FRAMES
As you will see we have no measurements for the face frames or the doors and draws, this is to allow for any size differences in the cabinet box. This will make for a better fit.
Top Face Frame:
The size of the top rail of the frame will vary depending on the size of crown molding you use. We used a 4” rail because of the 5 ½” crown molding. If you don’t use any crown then make it the same size as the others. The center also needs to be 4”. It will have a 3” post lay over the top when attaching the doors. Attach to the center of the frame, you should have the same measurement for the opening on both sides.
When you measure for length and width. The face frames should over hang about a 1/4 of an inch on both sides. And the length should be flush to the top and bottom.
Bottom Face Frame: The frame should over hang ¼” on the sides, same as the top frame. But you need to make the top of the rail flush with the bottom of the overhang. You can make the opening for the draws all the same. Or you can go from small, med. and large as we did. If you have never used pocket screws then see our short video on
making face frames with pocket screws.
When making face frames always put the good side facing out and the pocket screws to the inside so you cannot see them when finished.
ATTACHING THE FACE FRAMES
When attaching the face frames make sure they are put on strong, because they hold the weight of the doors. You have already drilled for pocket screws on the sides, tops and bottoms of the cabinets. Now add glue to the edges of the cabinets align the face frames clamp into place then shoot the screws. The cabinets are done, but you can’t call it a gun cabinet until you have doors and draws.
GUN CABINET PLANS
Before you can measure for the doors you must first mark the top for the crown molding, the doors will go up to it. Then you need to make and install the center post. Before installing the center post cut the edge the same that you will use for the doors. After this you can start to measure for the doors. Start by measuring for the length. From the top or the crown molding line down 1/4″ off the bottom of the face frame. Now the width, start at the edge of the center post and measure 1/2″ over the face frame. We used a rail and stile bit to make the doors but you can do other ways. When installing the doors we recommend using at least three hinges on each door.
GUN CABINET PLANS BOTTOM DOORS AND DRAWS GUN CABINET
When laying out for the doors, measure a 1/4″ from the top of the face down to the bottom for the length. Then from center line over to the face with a 1/2″ overlay. You will make the draws in the same manner going from center line to center line. Leaving just enough space as to not touch each other. Laying out for the doors and draws will vary depending on the type of hinges and draw slide you use.
BASE AND MOLDING
The base will have one solid 2 x 4 x 4 running across the back; this will give it extra support. Then you will attach three 4″ x 4″ x 4″ blocks at the corners and center. You will attach the base molding to theses blocks if you choose to use molding. If you want to use just legs you can, just find some decorative legs to use.
We left some of the measurements out so you can make this gun cabinet to a size you prefer. And you will need to get the sizes you will use for the racks inside the gun cabinet. What you have seen here is the way we made ours. The one we made is 4 ‘ wide 20″ deep at the base and 84″ tall. Made out of knotty pine and stained a honey oak. We made the top base tall so we can add a shelf inside to store some ammo.